Of course, the time to take preventive measures is BEFORE your cat is missing. But once you are reunited with your cat, or if you have other cats, or ever plan to get another cat, you will want to do everything possible to make sure your cat will be returned to you, should he or she ever get lost in the future.

Microchips

A microchip is a great way to minimize the possibility that your cat will be lost in the animal shelter system, as shelter and rescue workers scan for these chips when a new cat is brought in. Also, many people finding a cat will bring the cat to a vet or shelter to be scanned for a chip.

Many cats are chipped prior to adoption, but you can also have your cat microchipped at your vet’s office. Be sure your cat’s chip is registered and kept up to date. Sometimes, the shelter will register the chip for you. You can check this online. Make sure that the phone number, email address, etc. that you gave the chip company initially is still current, so you can be reached when your cat is found.

Remember that the information on the microchip is just a bar code. Your actual information, i.e. address, email, and phone number, is filed with the company who sold your cat’s chip (such as Home Again). Because of this, even if your cat goes missing before you have registered the chip, or if your contact information needs to be updated, you can still do this, as long as you have the original paperwork with your cat’s chip number on it. The microchip number may also be on file at your vet’s or at the shelter where you adopted your cat.

Collars

Not all cats will tolerate a collar. But if your cat will, make that collar count!

Be sure to write your phone number on the collar so that if anyone finds your cat, they can contact you. A lot of cat collars are difficult to write on. But you can get a personalized breakaway cat collar embroidered with your phone number for under $10 on Amazon or http://www.snazzyfido.com/products/personalised-embroidered-collar-made-from-organic-bamboo-webbing

If you find a cat’s collar on the ground and it has a phone number on it, please call that number: Knowing where the collar was found may help the family to be reunited with their cat, since it will be an important clue about where the cat has been.

Photos and Proof of Ownership

Be sure to keep current photos of your cats. You will need good photos for websites, posters, and flyers. Be sure the photos are crisp, clear, and show your cat’s markings well. It’s good to get the cat’s tail in the picture if you can, as tail size, shape, and color are important identifying details.

If somebody finds your cat, they may ask for proof that you are really the cat’s person. This is because there are unscrupulous (and very convincing) people who claim “found” cats, and then turn around and sell them, hoard them, or worse. The person who has your cat doesn’t know you, so please don’t take offense when they ask for proof. They are trying to protect you AND your cat. (Because what if they didn’t check for proof of ownership and gave your cat to some liar who stopped by an hour before you did?)

So make sure to take some selfies of you and your cat together, and be aware of where your cat’s adoption papers are kept. You can also bring some of your flyers as proof, if you have nothing else. Flyers will have your phone number or email so they can verify you as the “owner”. Having some sort of proof is important, since, unlike dogs, cats may not make a convincing leap into our arms, proving they are ours. They may well be too frightened to respond right away, and may even ignore us or hide.

GPS Devices

As of now, there are GPS devices for dogs, but those are too large for most cats. If anyone hears of a GPS device that is appropriate for cats, please let us know at cat.finders@comcast.net. Some people like Whistle, which shows your cat’s location on your smartphone. There is now a homing device that is nicely sized for cats and fits onto a collar for $99. I don’t know how well it works, but it seems like it might be worth a try if your cat keeps disappearing. See it here: http://www.hammacher.com/Product/78313?promo=Category-NewArrivals&catid=60 

Some people also like the Whistle Tracker: Whistle GO Explore GPS Pet Tracker & Activity Monitor
New technology is being developed all the time. There are many GPS systems now that could work for your cat. I suggest you use Google, and read reviews before making your choice.

Screens

One of the most common ways indoor-only cats go missing is because they push out a window screen or tear a hole in it. Outdoor-access cats will also sometimes destroy screens if they are not allowed out. Fortunately, cat-proof screen material is available online and at stores like Home Depot. The time to put up the cat-proof screens is BEFORE your cat gets out and gets lost. Here are some examples . . .  Cat Finders is not endorsing any specific product, and you may be able to find some at a lower cost at your favorite hardware store. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=cat+proof+screens&hvadid=77790566991479&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_4v22ysvi6n_e

SPECIAL SITUATIONS

There are a few situations that are especially risky for your cat to go missing. Over and over, we see cats go missing at some point during or after a family moves to a new home, or while traveling, or when your cat has just been newly adopted by you. Please see below for a discussion of each scenario.

Moving

A common time for cats to go missing is during a move. The cat either gets spooked by the moving trucks or all the disorder of a household being packed up, furniture being moved, etc., or by the car ride to the new home; or manages to escape from the new home before they know it’s really Home. 

It is crucial to take extra preventative steps during all stages of your move. Be sure to have your cat in a safe carrier she can’t escape from. Talk reassuringly to your cat during all phases of his or her trip to the new home. Once in the new home, it is a good idea to keep your cat in a quiet room, inside the carrier, with the door closed, while furniture is being moved into the home. Once the furniture movers are gone, and all is quiet, you can let the cat out of the carrier. Gradually, let the cat explore the house.

It is not advised to let your cat go outside right away, even if he or she was used to going outside at your former home. First, let the cat have a few days to get used to the new home, and to look out the windows to get some idea of the outdoor area. If your cat insists on going out after a few days, go with him or her (with your cat in a harness and on a leash perhaps) and explore the yard together. Bring some treats with you, in case your kitty begins to wander off; treats should bring him or her back to you. If your cat is on a leash, do not let go! Your cat could run up a tree or into underbrush and the leash could end up being a hazard to your cat.

Please be aware that if your cat was used to going out at his former home, he may miss his old territory, which was familiar to him, and felt safe. He may try to get back there, especially if it is less than about 10 or 15 miles away. This may happen right away, or after a few months. So you want to keep a pretty close eye on your cat during the early months of the move. If you can put an 8-foot fence around your yard, that might help keep your cat home and safe.

Traveling with Your Cat
It is extremely risky to let your cat outside at a rest stop, even with a halter and leash. Sometimes people feel that the cat needs a little exercise or to relieve him/herself. All it takes for your cat to get spooked and wiggle out of the harness is a big truck pulling in, or an air brake, horn, child screaming or any other unfamiliar noise. Many cats who get lost at a rest stop are never recovered. So, instead of letting your cat outside, line their carrier with an absorbent pad (like a Wee Wee pad) and bring a few extras along. Change the pad with all the doors and windows of the car closed, and your cat on a leash INSIDE the car so the cat doesn’t hide under the seats and then sneak out when you exit the car.

You can even have a litter box in the car, either in a cardboard box, or in a double carrier, as shown above, using one side for the cat, and the other for the litter box.

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